Metro Atlanta has one of the densest tree canopies of any major U.S. city, red clay that turns to soup after a day of rain, and three storm seasons a year. When the wind finally wins, here is what to do, in the order that keeps you safe and keeps the claim clean.
- Safety first: assume every downed line is live, and stay out of any room with a sagging ceiling or a tree in it.
- Photograph before you tarp, then tarp — emergency protection is covered and expected by your policy.
- A tree on the house is covered. A tree in the yard usually is not, beyond a small debris allowance.
- Water that came in through storm damage is covered; water that rose from outside is flood, which is a separate policy.
- Never let a contractor “waive your deductible” or sign over your claim at the curb.
After a storm damages your home: stay away from downed power lines and damaged structure, call 911 for any gas smell or live wires, photograph and video all damage before anything is moved, call your insurance company, get the roof tarped and openings boarded to stop further water, start drying any water that got inside within 24 hours, and hire tree removal and repair contractors you chose — not the ones who knocked on the door.
Why storms hit metro Atlanta homes so hard
Three things combine here. First, the trees: the metro’s canopy is close to half the land area in many neighborhoods, and the big ones — white oaks, water oaks, loblolly pines — are now 60 to 100 years old. Second, the soil: saturated red clay loses its grip on roots, so a pine that stood through a dry windstorm comes down in a wet one. Third, the calendar: severe thunderstorms and tornado threats from March through May, tropical remnants from August through October, and ice storms in January and February.
Helene in September 2024 was the reminder. Atlanta recorded 11.12 inches of rain in 48 hours — breaking a record that had stood since 1886 — Peachtree Creek and Nancy Creek rose above major flood stage, the Chattahoochee ran more than three feet over major flood level near Vinings, and over a million Georgia customers lost power. Most of the home damage, though, was ordinary: trees on roofs, water through ceilings, and basements that filled while the power was out.
The first hour: safety
- Downed lines are live until Georgia Power says otherwise. Stay 30 feet away, keep children and pets inside, and report them. A line touching a fence or a puddle energizes the fence or the puddle.
- Smell gas? Leave and call 911 from outside. Trees pull up gas lines when they uproot.
- Do not enter a room with a tree in it or a ceiling that is sagging. The structure may still be moving, and a ceiling holding water can come down at once.
- Generators stay outside, 20 feet from the house, away from windows. Carbon monoxide deaths rise after every major outage.
- If water is on the floor near outlets or the panel, cut the breakers from a dry spot or stay out.
The first day: document, protect, call
- Photograph and video everything before it is touched. The tree where it fell, the roof from the ground, every room with water, the yard. Date-stamped photos are the foundation of the claim.
- Call your insurer and get a claim number. Ask about emergency tarping and board-up (covered as mitigation) and about additional living expenses if you cannot stay in the house.
- Tarp the roof and board the openings — the same day if the forecast has more rain, and in Georgia it usually does. A properly fastened tarp, not a sheet of plastic held down with bricks. Keep the invoice.
- Get the tree off the house with a crane-equipped tree service if it is a large one. Removal from the structure is a covered expense; the tree service should be able to work with the roofer and restoration crew so the roof is covered as soon as the weight is off it.
- Start drying anything that got wet inside within 24 hours. Wet insulation, ceilings and floors do not wait for the roofer. The first-24-hours water checklist.
- Check the basement. Storms that take the power also take the sump pump. Why basements flood here.
What storm coverage usually looks like
| Damage | Typically covered? | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Tree on the house, garage, fence or deck | Yes | Removal from the structure and the repairs. Whose tree it was does not matter — your policy covers your house. |
| Tree down in the yard, nothing hit | Limited | Many policies pay a small debris-removal allowance (often a few hundred dollars per tree); the rest is on you. |
| Wind damage to roof and siding | Yes | Watch for a separate, higher wind/hail deductible on your declarations page — common on newer Georgia policies. |
| Rain through storm-damaged roof or windows | Yes | The storm opened the house; the water is part of the same loss. |
| Water rising from outside — creek, street, yard | No | Flood, which only a flood policy covers. NFIP has a 30-day wait. |
| Lightning — fire, electronics, HVAC | Yes | Document the strike; a surge claim on appliances may have sub-limits. |
| Spoiled food after an outage | Often, small | Many policies include a few hundred dollars; some require the outage to originate on your property. |
| Hotel while the house is unlivable | Yes | Additional living expenses. Keep receipts. |
Georgia’s rules give your insurer 15 days to acknowledge the claim and set deadlines for deciding and paying it; our Georgia claims guide walks through them.
Inside the house: what the water did
Storm water enters from above, which makes it sneaky. It runs down rafters and lands far from the hole, soaks attic insulation (which then holds it against the ceiling drywall), follows wiring and top plates down inside walls, and shows up as a ceiling stain two rooms away a week later. A moisture meter and, where needed, a thermal camera find where it went. Expect wet insulation to be removed, ceilings opened where they were saturated, and three to five days of drying before anything is closed back up. Our storm damage page covers the full sequence from tarp to rebuild.
The contractors to avoid
Within a day of any big storm, out-of-town crews work the damaged streets door to door. Some are fine. The ones to avoid say some version of the following:
- “We’ll cover your deductible.” That means inflating the invoice to the insurer, which is insurance fraud, and you are the policyholder on the claim.
- “Just sign here so we can talk to your insurance company.” That is often an assignment of benefits or a contingency agreement that commits you to them before an estimate exists. Read it, or do not sign it.
- “We need a deposit today to hold the crew.” Legitimate emergency tarping is a modest invoice; a large deposit for work that has not been scoped is a warning sign.
- No local address, no Georgia business registration, a magnetic sign on the truck. Ask where they are based. Look them up before you let them on the roof.
You choose your contractors. Your insurer can recommend; it cannot require.
Before the next one
- Have an arborist look at the big trees within reach of the house, especially pines and any oak with dead limbs or fungus at the base.
- Clean the gutters before spring and before fall.
- Put a battery backup on the sump pump.
- Photograph every room and the roof once a year. A “before” set makes any claim easier.
- Read the declarations page for the wind/hail deductible, and ask about flood insurance if you are near a creek.
- Make a plan — where the shut-offs are, where the documents are, who you call. Our emergency planning page is a start.
Frequently asked questions
A neighbor’s tree fell on my house. Whose insurance pays?
Yours. Homeowners policies cover damage to your property regardless of where the tree grew, and your insurer may later pursue the neighbor’s insurer if the tree was known to be dead or dangerous. Document the tree, including the base, before it is cut up.
Is tree removal covered by homeowners insurance?
Removal from a covered structure — the house, garage, fence, deck — is covered as part of the repair. A tree that fell in the yard and hit nothing is usually limited to a small debris allowance, often a few hundred dollars per tree, and some policies pay only if it blocks a driveway or ramp.
Should I tarp the roof myself?
If you can do it safely from the ground or a ladder on dry footing, a temporary tarp is better than an open roof. For a steep roof, a large opening, or anything with a tree still on it, hire it out. Roof falls are the most common serious injury after storms, and emergency tarping is a covered expense.
How long do I have to file a storm damage claim in Georgia?
File as soon as you can — policies require prompt notice. Georgia policies commonly allow lawsuits over a claim within two years of the loss, but the practical deadline is the one in your policy for notice and proof of loss. Waiting also makes it harder to separate storm damage from wear.
Water came up through the basement during the storm. Is that covered?
Usually not under a standard policy: groundwater and surface water are flood, and a sump that failed when the power went out needs a water-backup endorsement. Rain that came in through a storm-damaged roof or window is covered as part of the storm loss. More on what Georgia policies cover.
Does Verus handle storm damage?
Yes — emergency tarping and board-up, water extraction and drying, removal of wet insulation and drywall, and the rebuild, across all 21 of our North Metro Atlanta communities, 24 hours a day. We work alongside your tree service and roofer. Call (404) 983-0966 or text HELP.
Published by Verus Restoration, Norcross, GA — 24/7 water, fire, mold and storm damage restoration for 21 North Metro Atlanta communities. This article is general guidance, not a substitute for advice from your insurer, a licensed professional or emergency services. Call 911 for any immediate danger.